Selvedge Denim Mill

Selvedge Denim

Selvage denim?

Red ear selvedge denim, also known as: vintage denim, colored edge denim, smooth edge denim, selvedge denim,selvage denim, narrow denim, raw (RawDenim) denim, classical denim, Japan Okayama denim ; Jeans were firstly made of this hand-woven selvedge denim fabric.

About Denim

Denim is widely used on high-speed looms, so modern 60-inch denim is unedged. This 30-inch-wide denim fabric produced in France in 1567 with an old-fashioned loom has gradually disappeared, so “selvedge” has begun to become a synonym for VINTAGE denim, usually different manufacturers will use white cloth A line of different widths and colors is woven on the side so that customers can identify their products; in 1927, LEVIS began to use a large number of red lines (that is, “RED LINE” in VINTAGE LEVIS, which is called “red ear” in Japan); LADY LEVIS is Use pink (denim selvedge fabric); LEE mostly use white or green; and some denim from WRANGLER and J C PENNEY use gold. Several modern international well-known top denim brands “EVIS’U”, “SUGAR CANE”, “NEIGHBORHOOD” and “LVC” replica series also use this ancient denim, which is rare and expensive, so Selvedge Denim has become a top Symbol of jeans. Explanation of red ear: Red ear is a kind of cloth edging, also called cloth selvedge or Redline or redline, which refers to the white fabric edge (of narrow fabric) that appears in VINTAGE-STYLE’s denim. There is a red thread on both sides of the trousers barrel, and the shrinkage rate of these trousers after washing is between 8% and 10%.

Advantage of selvedge denim

Red ear effect: It is to prevent the denim fabric from loosening and falling off. Usually different manufacturers will add a different color thread to the white selvedge so that customers can identify their products. In 1927, LEVIS began to use red thread extensively; while some denims of WRANGLER and JC PENNEY used gold.

But now selvedge denim mill can make colors of the edge on the denim as per buyer’s detailed requests.WingFly Denim now offers custom selvedge denim in small minimum order quantity,say 1000yards+ for some items, buyers can have their favorite color of the selvedge.

SELVEDGE DENIM VS WIDE DENIM

1.Weaving

Regular denim is woven with modern fast looms. Raw edge, the width is normally 60 inches.

The red ear selvege denim needs to retain the edge, which is difficult for the general industrialized large-scale production machine. Therefore, traditional reciprocating shuttle looms are generally used for weaving. The width is only 30 inches, so it is necessary to keep the red edge (smooth edge), the machine is backward, and the efficiency is low.

2.The color and Pattern of the selvage

The original color of the selvedge is white. The selvage produced by an antique loom in the process of weaving. As time goes on,generally there are many colors, but now they are collectively referred to as chi (that is, red) ears.-best selvedge denim

-13.5oz raw selvedge denim

The most important point to distinguish whether it is red ear selvedge denim is to see whether the color or pattern of the selvage is integrated with the denim. Regular denim does not.

3.Prices

For example: in the brand LEVIS, only LVC series products will use denim with red selvedge, and its price is generally more than 1,000 Chinese Yuan.

And most of the several hundred yuan LEVIS jeans are made of wide denim.

Compared with ordinary jeans, red-ear selvedge denim jeans  have a thick texture, good moisture permeability, good air permeability, and comfortable wearing.

The difference between the red ear and the edging is that the red ear is directly woven on the fabric when the antique loom is woven, and the red ear is an integral part of the fabric. There are many ways of edging on the market. The simple method is to use a sewing machine to turn the bones directly, and the other method is to take a piece of colored cloth of other materials to wrap the front and rear side seams of the trousers. , This practice is often seen on trousers. The jeans with red ears on the market, in a sense, “red ears” represent the identity of a pair of jeans. For example, in the brand LEVIS, only LVC series products use red-eared denim, and its price is generally more than 1,000 yuan. Most of the LEVIS jeans with a few hundred yuan are made of ordinary denim, which are not red. ear. The godfather of Japanese trends, Hiroshi Fujiwara, likes to roll up the trousers when wearing jeans, exposing the red ears inside the trousers, which has also become a fashion for wearing jeans.

HOW IS WINGFLY RAW SELVEDGE DENIM DIFFERENT FROM OTHER SELVEDGE?

WINGFLY SELVEDGE DENIM WERE STARTED WITH THE KNOWLEDGE WITH THE JAPANESE COUNTERPART IN THE EARLY 1998S.
AND SINCE THEN WE KEPT THE TECHNICS AND WEAVING STYLE UNTIL TODAY.

WE MEANT TO KEPT SOME OF THE ORIGINAL FLAVOR ON THE FABRIC, YOU CAN CUT AROUND TO AVOID SHOWING ON THE JEANS, OR YOU CAN KEEP IT TO MAKE EVERY JEANS A LITTLE DIFFERENT.
YOU ARE NOT LOOKING FOR THE PERFECTION HERE, BUT YOU WILL GET THE BEST ORIGINAL FLAVOR OF SELVEDGE DENIM.

HOW MANY YARDS/METER DO I NEED TO MAKE A PAIR OF selvedge jeans?

GENERALLY SPEAKING, WE SUGGEST TO USE AROUND 2.8- 3.5YARDS (YDS) PER MEN’S 5-POCKET JEANS.
THERE ARE SOME DEFECTS LEFT ON THE FABRIC, YOU MAY WANT TO CUT AROUND AND MAKE A PERFECT JEANS. OR DEPENDING ON YOUR FLAVOR, YOU MAY WANT TO KEEP THOSE DEFECTS ON THE JEANS AS YOUR OWN SIGNATURE / UNIQUE DETAILS FROM THE OTHER JEANS.

WHAT TYPE OF SELVEDGE DENIM I SHOULD GET?

THERE ARE FEW OPTIONS OF RAW DENIM YOU CAN PICK

1.RAW RAW DENIM – THE FABRIC HASN’T BEEN THROUGH ANY FINISHING PROCESS. THE SHRINKAGE RATE IS VERY HIGH AND YOU WILL FIND HAIRY SURFACE. IT’S NORMALLY CALLED THE “RIGID” FROM THE OLD SAYING. FOR EXAMPLE, THE LEVI’S 501XX SHRINK TO FIT, HOPE IT RINGS THE BELL.

2.SANFORIZED – THE FABRIC HAS BEEN THROUGH A PROCESS CALLED “SANFORIZATION”. THIS TYPE OF FABRIC IS SHRINK-PROOF VALUE (PRE-SHRUNK). THE SHRINKAGE RATE IS LESS THAN 1%.

​3.DOUBLE PRE-SHRUNK – PROCESS IS SIMILAR TO SANFORIZED. BUT THE SHRINKAGE RATE IS CONTROLLED +/-3% (COTTON) WHICH ALLOW SOME ROOM FOR THE YARN MOVEMENT, AVOID OVER SHRUNK FROM SANFORIZATION.