This may be the most complete denim knowleges
There are two words that are often mentioned in the raw world: Denim (denim) and Jeans (cowboy). Let’s take a look at their regular definitions:
01.What is Denim? What is Jeans?
Denim
There is a small town in France called Nîmes, where a fabric called Serge de Nîmes (serge from Nîmes) is produced. This fabric has a peculiarity: it appears to be blue on one side and white on the other. Because the fabric adopts a 3X1 weave, every 3 blue warp yarns corresponds to 1 white weft yarn, and the warp yarns are blue dyed with natural indigo. Later, this fabric was spread to the United Kingdom. Since it was difficult for British businessmen to pronounce the French pronunciation of Serge de Nîmes, the fabric was referred to as Denim, transliterated as “Denim”.
There is a port city in northern Italy called Genoa, where denim clothing first appeared, around 1567. Sailors working in the port were often called Genoese by foreign merchants. They always wore work pants made of rough and sturdy canvas, mostly brown, not blue, called Genoses or Genes, which later became Jeans in the English-speaking world.
Sailor in jeans
In summary, Denim is an indigo-dyed, twill weave fabric; while Jeans refers to denim, and now more to trousers made of Denim or workwear.
Why are jeans blue?
The first pair of jeans was actually brown because it was made of canvas. Considering that the gold diggers were working in the open air, Li Wei fermented the leaves of the indigo plant into dyes to dye the jeans.
Indigo plant leaves repel mosquitoes. Later, blue twill was used as the fabric. Over time, blue gradually became the mainstream.
So what is “selvedge denim”?
Red ear tannin, English: Selvedge Denim, many consumers are not very clear about this concept.
Strictly speaking, two conditions must be met to be truly called-red selvedge denim(“red ear tannin”):
- It must be Denim cloth dyed with natural indigo;
- Selvedge denim woven with retro craftsmanship.
“Selvedge denim” can be simply understood as a denim fabric with a special overlock method. The traditional “red selvedge denim fabric is produced by an old-fashioned narrow shuttle loom with a width of 30 inches (about 0.762 meters).” . This kind of denim woven with an old-fashioned narrow shuttle loom is also called “Selvedge” because the edges of the fabric are already wrapped.
In fact, in the clothing industry, people don’t call this kind of fabric-red selvedge(“red ears”), but “narrow denim” or [self-wrapping denim]. In the early days, the “red line” of this edging was not only red, but also had other colors. Some brands also used –red selvedge (“red ears”) as a sign for easy identification by customers. In 1927, Levi’s uniformly used red overlock thread to make jeans in the “Vintage Red Line” series, which was later called –red selvedge (“red ears”) by Japanese hipsters. This is difficult to achieve in general industrialized large-scale production machines.
Generally speaking, what are the types of denim?
First, according to the thickness of denim, it is divided into 4.5 amps, 6 amps, 8 amps, 10 amps, 11 amps, 12 amps, 13.5 amps, 14.5 amps, etc. 4.5A is the thinnest, and is often used for summer women’s vests, sleeveless shirts, etc.; while 14.5A is very thick, and is generally used for men’s cotton quilts in winter. Most of the jeans we often wear range from 8 amps to 12 amps.
The cloth weight is related to the yarn count and the warp and weft density of the fabric. The thicker the yarn, the thicker the cloth, and the greater the weight.
Generally, it can be divided into three categories: light, medium and heavy. The weight of light cloth is 200~340g/m2 (6~
10 oz/sq yd), medium 340~450 g/sq m (10~13 oz/sq yd), heavy
Over 450 grams (over 13 oz/sq yd).
The concept of ounces, yards and inches
Ounce, generally referred to as OZ in the textile industry, its conversion is 1 ounce = 28.5 grams.
1 yard = 0.9144 meters. 1 inch = 2.54 cm.
The length of denim is usually measured in yards.
It is best not to choose raw cow fabrics above 22OZ, unless you are a heavy player.
WingFly Textile Co.produced 33oz selvedge denim fabric with a minimum order quantity 500yards.
At present, the more popular denim fabrics at home and abroad mainly include ring yarn denim, warp and weft slub denim, super indigo dyed denim, over-color denim, assorted denim and weft elastic denim.
In terms of composition, denim is divided into combed and carded, including 100% cotton, elastic (Lycra), cotton and linen blended, and Tencel.
02. Denim design key: sewing
Threads of denim jeans
Most of them are 2 points unilateral double top thread, there are 2 points single top thread, 2 points bilateral double top thread, the color of the car thread is generally a contrasting color line such as khaki, and there are also color matching lines, pay attention to the color line after washing. There are also special craft threads such as zigzag thread, bold hand embroidery thread and so on.
Accessories of denim jeans
Denim jeans mostly use I-shaped buttons, four-in-one buttons, studs, corns, leather cards, metal zippers, etc.
Lables of denim jeans:
Including main label, size label, wash water label, flag label, side label, etc.
The shrinkage of denim is very important. Generally, ordinary denim will have a shrinkage of 2% to 3%, while the shrinkage of stretch denim can reach more than 10%. In addition, each roll of denim is different. So the patterning of cowboys is a delicate job.
Most denim styles are mainly casual. Most of these styles are flat-cut, and the key is how to determine the size; while stretch denim (including Lycra) is more complicated, and with a shrinkage of more than 10%, the style is always constantly adjusting. The most taboo for jeans is to wrinkle in the front waves, and the requirement is to fit closely. In the past two years, some big brands have launched three-dimensional cutting, which is actually similar to vertical cutting, adding more pleats at the knees, or one more face, to better enhance the mobility of jeans. The tailoring of denim suits can test the skill of a pattern maker.
03. Decorative craftsmanship of jeans
In the past two years, the trend of denim has been different from before. In addition to paying great attention to the changing design of washing water, it also attaches great importance to the treatment of denim decoration.
Burrs
Trim the bottom of the jeans and the body of the trousers with scissors, add special threads, and add machine embroidery, including computer-embroidered patterns and flower designs.
Hot drill
Hot drilling is very popular in the Russian market, and crafts such as appliqué embroidery, hand embroidery, and bead embroidery are full of design sense.
Different fabric stitching
Unification and contrast of different material combinations. Fabric splicing makes up and enriches the appearance of clothing that is not easy to express by a single fabric itself, adds new artistic charm, and also reflects the concept of environmental protection and reuse.
Printing:hand-printed
Hand-printing commonly used letterpress printing and hollow version printing. Letterpress printing refers to the use of stencils to engrave patterns and rubbing the yin and yang sides to form graphics on denim fabrics. Hollow-out printing, also known as stencil printing, refers to the use of stencils of different materials to carve hollow patterns, and scratch and paint the hollowed-out areas on the fabric.
Paint overprint
Paint overprinting refers to printing the prepared paint color paste on the denim fabric by using a rotary screen or a flat screen.
2015 Dior Men|Evisu
Application of Coating Overprint
The coating has good overprint coverage, and the fabric surface is flat. It is applied to the denim jacket with less friction, and the back has more overprints. It is not suitable for application on light, soft or fluffy fabrics.
Discharge printing
Discharge printing refers to the addition of white powder or other dye discharge agents that destroy the background color on the surface of the dyed denim fabric. The effect of white flowers on a blue background.
Burnt-out print
After using burnt-out pulp to rot the cotton on the denim fabric, it is washed with water to form an alternative style of raw clothes with a three-dimensional effect of de-yarning.
In the picture, the white weft yarns of the burnt-out part of the denim jacket are detached, while the warp and weft yarns of the pattern part are not damaged, thus forming a plant pattern with a three-dimensional engraving appearance.
This type of print design has a destructive aesthetic, but can only be used on woven denim.
Laser
The original color of the cloth is burned at high temperature by the laser, and the color of the cloth embryo is exposed. The denim with rendering effect can also be matched with different fabrics, such as wool, imitation leather, corduroy, thick knitted (fleece, sweater cloth) ) and so on. (See the end of the article for details)
04.Common washing methods
washing plant
General washing
It’s just that the washing that we are familiar with on weekdays is changed to mechanization. The water temperature is about 60°~90°C, and a certain amount of detergent is added. After ordinary washing for about 15 minutes, the softener can be added to the water to make the fabric more comfortable. Soft, comfortable, visually more natural and clean.
Usually according to the length of washing time and the amount of chemicals, general washing can be divided into light general washing, general washing, heavy washing
General wash. Usually it takes about 5 minutes for light general washing, about 15 minutes for general washing, and about 30 minutes for heavy general washing.
This time is also not fixed, and there is no obvious limit.
Stonewashing/Stone Grinding
Stone washing is to add a certain size of pumice stone to the washing water to polish the pumice stone and the clothes.
It can be washed or rinsed before stone grinding, or rinsed after stone grinding. According to the different requirements of customers,
Wash with yellow stone, white stone, AAA stone, artificial stone, rubber ball, etc. to achieve different washing effects
However, after washing, the cloth surface is gray and old, and the clothes are slightly to severely damaged.
Enzyme wash
Enzyme is a kind of cellulase, which can degrade the fiber structure under a certain pH value and temperature, so that the cloth surface can be mildly faded, dehaired (producing a “peach skin” effect), and lasting softness The effect can be used in combination with or instead of stones. If used in combination with stones, it is usually called enzyme stone washing.
Sand washing
For sand washing, use some alkaline and oxidizing auxiliaries to make the clothes have a certain fading effect and old feeling after washing. It can make the fabric soft and soft after washing, so as to improve the wearing comfort.
Chemical wash
Chemical washing mainly uses strong alkali additives to achieve the purpose of fading. After washing, the clothes will have a more obvious old feeling. If you add softener, the clothes will have a soft and plump effect. If stone is added to chemical washing, it is called fossil washing, which can enhance the effect of fading and wear, so that the clothes have a strong sense of dilapidation. Fossil washing combines the effects of chemical washing and stone washing, and can achieve a Distressed and raised effect.
Rinsing
In order to make the clothes have a white or bright appearance and soft feel, the clothes need to be rinsed, that is, after ordinary washing with clean water, heat to 60 ℃, according to the depth of bleaching color, add an appropriate amount of bleach for 7 to 10 minutes. Make the color match the board in time.
During operation, the direction of adding the bleaching agent should be consistent with the direction of the rotating cylinder, so as to avoid the bleaching agent not being diluted with water as soon as possible.
Directly on clothing, localized bleaching occurs. Before bleaching, the water level in the tank should be slightly higher so that the bleach can be diluted. Clothes
After the board is bleached, use large (small) soda to neutralize the residual bleach in the water to stop the bleaching completely.
end. After the clean water, add detergent, fluorescent whitening agent, hydrogen peroxide, etc. to the water temperature of 50 ° C for the final washing.
Polyester, neutralize PH value, fluorescent whitening, etc., and finally soften it.
Rinsing can be divided into oxygen bleaching and chlorine bleaching. Oxygen bleaching is to use the oxidation of hydrogen peroxide at a certain pH value and temperature to destroy the dye structure, so as to achieve the purpose of fading and whitening. Generally, the surface of the bleached cloth will be slightly reddish. Chlorine bleach is beneficial
The oxidation of sodium hypochlorite is used to destroy the dye structure, so as to achieve the purpose of fading. The fading effect of chlorine bleach
Rough, rinse with dry indigo denim. After bleaching the board, the residual chlorine in the water and clothes should be neutralized.
And, to stop the bleaching, and then perform stone grinding after bleaching, which is called stone rinsing.
Destroy wash
After the garment is polished with pumice stone and treated with additives, some parts (bones, collar corners, etc.) will be damaged to a certain extent, and the clothes will have a more obvious dilapidated effect after washing.
Heavy wash + damage wash
Snow wash
Saturate the dried pumice stone with potassium permanganate solution, then polish it directly with the clothes in a special rotary cylinder, and polish it on the clothes through the pumice stone, so that the potassium permanganate oxidizes the friction points, so that the cloth surface is irregularly discolored and formed. White dots resembling snowflakes.
The general process of snowflake washing is as follows: soaking potassium permanganate with pumice stone – dry grinding of pumice stone and clothes – snowflake effect on the board – taking out the clothes and washing the stone dust on the clothes with clean water in the washing tank – oxalic acid neutralization –Washed–Apply softener.
Cat whisker
It is WHISKER, but WHISKER’s statement is more professional. Cat whiskers are a type of hand sand and hand rub, which are just ground into the shape of cat whiskers. There are four kinds of cat whiskers that are popular today: ordinary cat whiskers, three-dimensional cat whiskers, hand-folded cat whiskers, and laser cat whiskers.
Ordinary cat whiskers
hand-folded cat whiskers
three-dimensional cat whiskers
laser cat whiskers
Sandblasting
Use special equipment (figuratively speaking, it is a large electric toothbrush, but it is a roller type) on the cloth. Usually comes with an inflatable model.
spray horse liu
The essential difference between sandblasting and sandblasting is that the former is a chemical action and the latter is a physical action. The spray gun is to spray the potassium permanganate solution to the clothing according to the design requirements with a spray gun, and a chemical reaction occurs to cause the fabric to fade.
The degree of fading is controlled by the concentration and spray amount of potassium permanganate. From the point of view of the effect, the spray horseliu will fade.
Evenly, both the surface and the inner layer are faded, and a strong fade effect can be achieved. And sandblasting only has a retreat on the surface.Color, physical damage to the fiber can be seen.
Pigment dyed wash
Also known as “single-sided coating/paint dyeing”, this washing method is specially designed for garments dyed with paint, and its function is to consolidate the original bright color and increase the softness of the hand.
Fried salt
The process of frying salt is the same in basic principle as the processes of frying red stone, frying bleach, and Fumaliu that have long been mature in the industry.
It relies on potassium permanganate solution to produce oxidation on denim fabrics, so as to achieve the effect of nostalgia. because it is
The difference in operation process and auxiliary materials finally presents a differentiated effect.
05. New environmentally friendly washing method
Denim Laser Wash
Using laser washing technology to engrave denim fabrics and innovate visual graphics is a finishing method for jeans fabrics that combines modern digital technology, laser technology and artistic design.
Through a digitally controlled laser, a high-energy-density laser beam is used to vaporize the dye on the surface of the denim fabric, and at the same time, the depth of the laser beam on the surface of the material is flexibly adjusted to create a three-dimensional pattern effect. Thus, different fading laser aging effects, image patterns, gradient flower shapes, cat whisker frosting and other effects are produced on various denim fabrics.
It can not only avoid the disadvantages of traditional technology, but also replace the hand-wiping, sandblasting, horse-spraying and other processes in the traditional production process, shorten the process and increase the added value.
Ozone wash
Ozone is a strong oxidant that can chemically react with denim surface dyes in aqueous solutions, destroying these
The chromophore and auxochromic groups of the dyes, so as to achieve the decolorization effect and bleach the cloth surface.
Bleaching effect after ozone treatment
Ozone technology is mainly used in decolorization and bleaching in the dyeing and finishing process, which not only saves water, but also shortens the pre-treatment or post-treatment process. After a number of tests, it has been proved that ozone finishing saves water compared with the traditional washing process
About 90%, saving 60% of chemicals and electricity consumption, and greatly reducing production costs.
(The above is mainly aimed at practitioners or fashion designers who want to quickly understand the basic common sense of denim. There are inevitably omissions in the content.Corrections welcome!)
