What’s difference between unsanforized selvedge denim and raw selvedge denim fabric?

First of all, you need to understand what unsanforized selvedge denim fabric is, and why the jeans should be sizing?

>>>> Raw Denim

The word of the original cattle comes from RAW Denim, and RAW means the original, unprocessed, and immature. To put it simply, the original cow is the jeans made directly on the denim rolls produced by the factory (not washed through the process of washing). When we talk about their natives, you can also understand that we are talking about a relatively primitive denim state.

 

There are also some brands or manufacturers called Dry Denim in this original state, which is the state after washing.

 

Therefore, the original cow is also called Raw Denim or Dry Denim.

 

There is also a saying in the workshop that “the original cattle refers to jeans that have not been processed without slurry/sizing.” This statement is actually not correct. Basically, all denim fabrics must be a procedure of drilling/desizing.

So why do jeans be unsanforized/sizing?

In fact, the “desizing/sanforized” of the “desizing/sanforized” after buying the jeans after buying the jeans is already “secondary off the desizing/sanforized”. This believes that many senior players of the raw jeans are not clear. And why jeans should be sizing/unsanforized and desizing/sanforized, and there are very few people in the industry know it.

 

So that there are many misleading information on the Internet as below:

 

For the enthusiasts of cattle raising(cowboy/jeans lovers), they must know the meaning of jeans from the jeans, but I believe most friends still don’t know much. Then let’s talk about the concept of desizing: It means that jeans generally go through the processing before the factory is treated with pulp treatment. In order to keep the jeans a certain hardness and achieve the effect, but when the customer is purchased, the jeans will gradually soften as the number of washing times, which can be said to be desizing/sanforized.

These are wrong explanation of unsanforized/sizing and raw selvedge denim fabric

First,

What everyone needs to be clear, it is also very important. The sizing is not done before the off -factory of the jeans! Instead, it is to the yarn then weaving into denim fabric.

Therefore, of course, the purpose of the sizing is not to make the jeans hard and fix it, but to make the yarn tough to prevent it from being broken. The purpose of desizing is not just to make jeans softer. Please look down on details.

The sizing/unsanforized and desizing/sanforized are performed in the production stage of the denim cloth

Sizing (unsanforized selvedge denim)

Objective: Make the yarn strong and facilitate the weaving.

Due to the severe mechanical effects on the weaving machine, it is sufficiently tough enough to suffer from 3000 to 5,000 times to different degrees of stretching, flexion, and wear at different degrees to bear this intensity. However, the yarn itself is very soft, and it is easy to break if it is directly woven. Single gauze fibers are unable to coexist each other, and it is difficult to weave. Therefore, after the yarn is dyed, it should be treated to improve the weaving of the yarn, improve the abrasion resistance, make the hair feathers stick and enhance its strength.

From the weaving process GIF diagram, you can feel the impact of high -speed weaving on the yarn.

Sizing craft process

Warp Yarns Axial rack → sizing groove → baking house → head of the machine

 

1 Warp Yarns Axial frame 2 Power automatic adjustment device 3 Sizing trough 4 Wet Split  5-drying device

6 Waxing Device two sides 7 Dyr lease area  8 Machine Head

 

The above is a process of a slurry, and we will not start too much here. The slurry is the most important, and starch is often the most commonly used. Uh, it sounds like cooking here. In fact, when searching for the slurry on Baidu, it is true … So this comparison can better understand.

The cross section of Sizing yarn

It can be seen that the sizing is equivalent to wrapping a layer of protective film on the surface of the warp yarns to avoid damage when weaving.

The comparison before and after the sizing can also be seen by the yarn hair feathers, the surface is smoother.

Desizing

Although the sizing is favorable for weaving, it brings much trouble to the finishment process. Because the sizing film on the yarn can make the woven fabrics hard and rough, and contains a lot of impurities. Therefore, for the needs of the subsequent process, it is necessary to remove the layer of pulp wrapped on the yarn on the sizing link, commonly known as “desizing/sanforized”. Strictly speaking, all fabrics will be prolapsed in the post -rear stage.

Desizing Process

Burning hair →sanforized/desizing

Simply to say, through various method of desizing, sodium hydroxide, amylase, acid, oxidant, etc., to reduce the adhesion between fibers and the viscosity of the slurry, separate, and remove them again.

 

So, since the denim fabric is desizing/sanforized, why does the customer still make a secondary desizing/sanforized after sewing into jeans?

Does not remove the effect of fading?

Won’t. In fact, it will not affect the development of color drops. Or, the impact of sizing (that is, starch) has a small impact on the fading of the original denim. Cats, honeycomb and other textures, as time and wear, there should still be.

But we still recommend that sanforize/desizing it firstly when you buy the raw denim jeans, there are three reasons

Although the slurry was to make the yarn strong, cotton fiber was wrapped in starch for a long time, which would become dry and fragile, shorten the life of cotton fiber, and naturally became dry, fragile, and easily damaged.

While removing starch, it can also remove the residual chemical items used during the process of making denim and jeans, making cotton fibers more “healthy” and more lasting jeans.

Remove the excess of the blue dye attached to the surface of the jeans to avoid it dyed on your seat, sofa and white clothing.

UNSANFORIZED jeans must be removed first !!!

If you buy the raw denim jeans (without pre -shrinking) , whether you want or not, you must take off the pulp first !!

 

Unsanforized(without pre-shrinking) jeans will shrink (ie, shrink) after the first launch of the water, and the shrinkage rate is different due to different brands or fabrics. The jeans are shifted after soaking in water, remember to remove the pulp first. Otherwise, your honeycomb is likely to run to your thigh!

Sanforized Denim Jeans(One Wash)

It is not to soften jeans, nor is it to remove starch slurry. The main purpose is to remove the shrinkage rate and avoid wrong fitting and sizes which customers made from buying home and washing. (Customers can easily find the suitable size, and naturally reduce the return rate …)

 

Regardless of whether the customer takes off at home or the brand officer, it has been separated from the true definition of “slurry” in the industry, so I will call it “secondary slurry”. So, if you ask me what should I do at home? It’s simple, so bubble water.

 

First, a bathtub, or a large container.

Then prepare warm water, cold water, but warm water can eliminate the shrinkage as much as possible. Essence Remember, the temperature should not be higher than 60 ° C, otherwise it will destroy cotton fiber.

 

Put the jeans in the bathtub and pour in warm water.

 

Press the jeans with heavy objects, so that jeans are completely covered with water. You can stir it, so that the moisture is completely penetrated into jeans.

Soak for 20 minutes, then stir again, soak for 40 minutes or longer.

You will see that the water becomes blue, and the extra blue dye is diluted. If you see a reddish tone, you don’t need to worry, it may be natural indigo.

Then get the jeans out, turn it and pull it, but do not need to be wring out, and hang it directly to the cool place to dry.

 

(Do not expose to the sun, especially in the hot summer, it is very harmful to cotton fiber.)

Some people may suggest that you washed jeans once in 6-12 months. Washing and not washing is a personal choice, but Danning notes must first remind you that too little washing will increase the risk of jeans bursting crotch!

Next, you can enjoy your jeans fading journey!

Summary: Unsanforized selvedge denim fabric is not desizing and not pre-shrunk,can use to make fading jeans and washing jeans.

Raw Selvedge denim fabric is desizing and pre-shrunk.

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